1
00:00:06,200 --> 00:00:13,200
This is Kenya, in July 1986.

2
00:00:13,200 --> 00:00:19,110
This is just to remind me to send a postcard to Genevieve at number 18.

3
00:00:19,110 --> 00:00:28,460
I'm in the rest from Brussels airport and chasing planes on the way to Nairobi,

4
00:00:28,460 --> 00:00:38,000
They have the aeroplane meal they give you in the airport, so you have a meal on the plane coming from London to Brussels.

5
00:00:38,000 --> 00:00:40,980
And you'll meet, you know, another another meal in the airport the same as giving you one of the plane,

6
00:00:40,980 --> 00:00:48,570
although it does give it a chance, of course, of sleeping on the plane anyway.

7
00:00:48,570 --> 00:00:57,120
But I took advantage of the occasion to have a glass of cream, from the Tinamon's[?] Brewery,

8
00:00:57,120 --> 00:01:06,000
I just noticed that, I noticed for the first time that they label it with an alcohol consumption, 5.5 by volume.

9
00:01:06,000 --> 00:01:19,000
The meal was actually a rather good [...]. They had a good salad and a couple of cheeses.

10
00:01:19,000 --> 00:01:38,160
[...] Not a bad airline meal at all.

11
00:01:38,160 --> 00:01:46,760
We are dead on the ground. This is a curious image.

12
00:01:46,760 --> 00:02:03,200
It's quite late in the evening. About 10 o'clock, and I'm tired and I've had a few drinks on the plane and in the restaurant.

13
00:02:03,200 --> 00:02:07,580
The lighting was on in the air port and are very few, very little traffic anymore,

14
00:02:07,580 --> 00:02:15,200
so it's quite lit for the empty place and it's still light outside so there's a

15
00:02:15,200 --> 00:02:22,000
funny contrast between the fluorescent light inside and the dusky light outside.

16
00:02:22,000 --> 00:02:28,260
I'm standing on a very long travel [...]

17
00:02:28,260 --> 00:02:46,220
Sort of rather womby, and in W-O-M-B-Y, red hallway, being carried along to a point where I'll get on a plane and fall asleep.

18
00:02:46,220 --> 00:02:57,780
When I wake up, I'll be in Africa A bit like Alice Through the Looking Glass or something, I'll be tumbling

19
00:02:57,780 --> 00:03:10,740
along this curious pinky-red tunnel in the state of half dark, half light, half way half sleep, half sober half drunk.

20
00:03:10,740 --> 00:03:20,550
I'm not sure you're familiar with my habit of taking idiosyncratically, little notes like that, sometimes they sound a bit silly,

21
00:03:20,550 --> 00:03:28,830
but sometimes they just find their way into an article to get a little bit of colour and atmosphere.

22
00:03:28,830 --> 00:03:39,960
It's a very strange looking guy ahead of me on the travel elevator. He's a very small black man in a very tight grey pinstripe suit,

23
00:03:39,960 --> 00:03:46,030
it's very tight and very draped with a high collar as a conventional Western style suit,

24
00:03:46,030 --> 00:03:52,470
excepting that is double breasted with a very high collar that's buttoned almost at neck level.

25
00:03:52,470 --> 00:03:59,610
And he has a broad brimmed white straw hat and he's carrying a briefcase in one hand,

26
00:03:59,610 --> 00:04:08,680
the sort of executive briefcase in one hand and a ukulele wrapped in polythene in the other hand.

27
00:04:08,680 --> 00:04:14,820
When I talked about the airport having a feeling of being open and half closed, that's true for example of

28
00:04:14,820 --> 00:04:30,190
the airport shops, both in the main side area and this terminal at this gate [...] and I always thought of it as big ground game building.

29
00:04:30,190 --> 00:04:38,260
My plane is going to Nairobi, Kigali, K-I-G-A-L-I, and Bujumbura.

30
00:04:38,260 --> 00:04:43,780
B-U-J-U-M-B-U-R-A.

31
00:04:43,780 --> 00:04:46,370
I don't know whether Kigali is the name of Nairobi airport.

32
00:04:46,370 --> 00:04:56,710
I have no idea what Bujumbura is, it's flight SN-497, and it's 11 o'clock at night.

33
00:04:56,710 --> 00:05:01,480
I've just discovered that Bujumbura is the capital of Burundi.

34
00:05:01,480 --> 00:05:06,010
I've been told this by the passengers sitting next to me who was going there.

35
00:05:06,010 --> 00:05:12,490
He's doing a PhD on literacy training in African countries.

36
00:05:12,490 --> 00:05:21,070
OK, I got it all sorted out now, Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. Bet you didn't know that, did you?

37
00:05:21,070 --> 00:05:35,260
My travelling colleague, on the plane, recommends me to the Heron Court Hotel in Nairobi on Milimani Road.

38
00:05:35,260 --> 00:06:13,420
[other passenger describes hotel, inaudible]

39
00:06:13,420 --> 00:06:27,120
Somebody important is coming to Kenya today, who is it? [...] About seven presidents?

40
00:06:27,120 --> 00:06:31,440
[inaudible]

41
00:06:31,440 --> 00:07:05,510
Uh-Huh. You know what the conference about? [inaudible]

42
00:07:05,510 --> 00:07:10,330
Well, I hope they have better luck than I did, the airline already lost my bag.

43
00:07:10,330 --> 00:07:28,000
[inaudible]

44
00:07:28,000 --> 00:07:30,840
Is this the flag of Kenya?

45
00:07:30,840 --> 00:07:37,370
And are these flags always along the road or just for this special conference?

46
00:07:37,370 --> 00:07:49,420
For the conference. What kind of trees are these?

47
00:07:49,420 --> 00:08:10,750
Yeah. Rowan Trees.

48
00:08:10,750 --> 00:08:23,000
What about these trees? What are they? [...] Oh, those are Rowan trees?

49
00:08:23,000 --> 00:08:39,250
What kind of car is this? [inaudible] Peugeot. [inaudible]

50
00:08:39,250 --> 00:08:54,840
But you made a little decoration to make it more interesting? [inaudible]

51
00:08:54,840 --> 00:09:01,130
But the last one, as you said, these are jacaranda, the last ones, you said, are Rowan.

52
00:09:01,130 --> 00:09:05,670
[inaudible] But did I hear what you said, right, Rowan?

53
00:09:05,670 --> 00:09:10,390
[inaudible] How do you spell it in English, do you know?

54
00:09:10,390 --> 00:09:19,800
T-H-O-R-N. Oh, thorn trees.

55
00:09:19,800 --> 00:09:47,300
Yeah. Well, I was interested to see already the just from the airport, that you have a lot of unusual, well, trees that I haven't seen before.

56
00:09:47,300 --> 00:09:59,470
Yeah. Yes, I am planning to go to the coast, [...].

57
00:09:59,470 --> 00:10:11,020
I believe it's very different there. [inaudible]

58
00:10:11,020 --> 00:10:26,270
It's a little bit dull here at the moment, but will it get sunnier later in the day you think?

59
00:10:26,270 --> 00:10:40,320
So what kind of industries that are around? [inaudible] East African industry, what what do they do?

60
00:10:40,320 --> 00:11:02,480
[inaudible]

61
00:11:02,480 --> 00:11:13,400
But what sport do you play in the big stadium? [inaudible]

62
00:11:13,400 --> 00:11:38,000
So the Nyayo National Stadium, N-Y-A-Y-O. [football teams read out]

63
00:11:38,000 --> 00:11:59,000
What is that, is that soccer? [inaudible]

64
00:11:59,000 --> 00:12:09,660
My cab driver told me that he was a Kikuyu.

65
00:12:09,660 --> 00:12:19,230
He also told me what tribe the president is, a small tribe, but I can't remember, but he seemed to be proud to be a Kikuyu.

66
00:12:19,230 --> 00:12:25,900
All right. Joining us to listen to any of the other tribes.

67
00:12:25,900 --> 00:12:36,930
The fair was just under, a couple of [...] under 200 shillings, and I wanted to give them a 10 per cent, it was the right thing to do,

68
00:12:36,930 --> 00:12:45,090
but I didn't have to change, we finished up driving around the block, so he could somewhere to park, so I could get change,

69
00:12:45,090 --> 00:12:53,070
So quite obviously, 20 shillings is a very worthwhile tip.

70
00:12:53,070 --> 00:12:58,000
He was generally a very smiley, a very pleasant chap.

71
00:12:58,000 --> 00:13:06,370
Everybody, I've been going around moaning about the lack of luggage. and everybody assures me everything's going to be all right.

72
00:13:06,370 --> 00:13:17,450
People are very reassuring. The woman in the cash change, for example, or on reception at the hotel.

73
00:13:17,450 --> 00:13:22,830
There were security checks about how because some of the ministers are coming here,

74
00:13:22,830 --> 00:13:30,000
all presidents or whatever it is, they're coming here are going to be staying in the hotel.

75
00:13:30,000 --> 00:13:41,630
Opposite the hotel, there is a building with a pillared portico.

76
00:13:41,630 --> 00:13:55,890
And it's a Kenyan National Archives. There's a very modern ambassador hotel and a very modern intercontinental hotel.

77
00:13:55,890 --> 00:14:07,550
Lots of rather drab, modern buildings, one or two quite nice ones in a sort of sandy colour, honey colour.

78
00:14:07,550 --> 00:14:22,060
And a very strange dome, it's sort of like a lady's crinoline dress, and I don't know whether it's a mosque, I suppose it could be.

79
00:14:22,060 --> 00:14:30,640
I just noticed an ad on the side of a bus of violence against women is against the law.

80
00:14:30,640 --> 00:14:42,060
[...] because of security checks on the door.

81
00:14:42,060 --> 00:14:51,190
[...]

82
00:14:51,190 --> 00:14:52,000
And only one of the lifts is working. I'm whispering,

83
00:14:52,000 --> 00:15:01,840
because I don't want anybody to think an assassin talking in a [...] or something.

84
00:15:01,840 --> 00:15:19,880
Because of all that one feels sort of prisoner-ish anyway. I've just come down to the poolside barbecue bar and I'm having some grilled tuna fish and a drink called [...], which the

85
00:15:19,880 --> 00:15:35,700
alcohol  base, spirit base, is Kenya cane, cane spirit I guess, with mango juice and a dash of,

86
00:15:35,700 --> 00:15:46,650
what's it called, grenadine. The waiter was very shy about it, there is a slight sort of shy, smiling charmingness about

87
00:15:46,650 --> 00:15:59,910
a lot of the people I've met in the few hours I've been here. [inaudible]

88
00:15:59,910 --> 00:16:26,620
What's the difference? What? What is it that makes Islam a way of life? [inaudible]

89
00:16:26,620 --> 00:19:00,840
[inaudible]

90
00:19:00,840 --> 00:19:09,330
But the Christians, particularly the Catholics fast during Lent, for example.

91
00:19:09,330 --> 00:19:36,530
And they use that as well at one time of the year, and the Christian's have rules, like you mustn't covert your neighbours wife, or old Jewish rules that sort of thing, but they also have rules. [inaudible]

92
00:19:36,530 --> 00:19:42,890
But are you saying that what it really amounts to, the instructions are more specific,

93
00:19:42,890 --> 00:19:59,280
that they're not they're not broad principles, they're actual things you must do. [inaudible]

94
00:19:59,280 --> 00:20:20,090
[inaudible] There's no room for interpretation. [inaudible]

95
00:20:20,090 --> 00:20:34,670
But you're Muslims as well, you're a branch, a sort of [inaudible].

96
00:20:34,670 --> 00:20:58,490
[inaudible] But what about the Sunni and Shia? What are their versions of Muslim? Their versions of Islam? How do they differ from each other?

97
00:20:58,490 --> 00:22:44,090
[inaudible]

98
00:21:50,000 --> 00:22:00,770
But does that mean that the Shia are more progressive than the Sunnis? [inaudible]

99
00:22:25,000 --> 00:22:32,000
What I don't understand, is it the Sunnis who are the most traditional or the Shias who are the most traditional?

100
00:22:32,000 --> 00:22:44,090
It's both the same, it's not tradition [...] they are [...]

101
00:22:44,090 --> 00:22:52,040
[inaudible] they don't have the same fundamentals. [inaudible]

102
00:22:52,040 --> 00:23:24,090
[inaudible]

103
00:23:24,090 --> 00:23:38,550
From my hotel room, which is on the 11th floor, you can actually see the line where the city ends, and there is a scrubby grassland

104
00:23:38,550 --> 00:23:44,970
with the thorn trees that the cab driver who was talking about this morning.

105
00:23:44,970 --> 00:23:49,250
A lot of the buildings are just sort of very vague,

106
00:23:49,250 --> 00:24:01,020
box-type buildings, they have two or three or five or six floors, look rather as though they were put up in the fifties.

107
00:24:01,020 --> 00:24:10,780
And then there are hotels, out of buildings that were obviously put up more recently than that.

108
00:24:10,780 --> 00:24:18,790
I mentioned, I think before this very characteristic honey coloured,

109
00:24:18,790 --> 00:24:25,000
I don't know whether it's external concrete with a stone casing, I suppose, I don't know.

110
00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:30,640
There is a second airport in the city. I'm not sure there's an internal airport, or a purely military one,

111
00:24:30,640 --> 00:24:40,630
but a plane in what looks like a military camouflage, it looked like a pistol engine plane, just flew

112
00:24:40,630 --> 00:24:51,020
almost just over the hotel roof just now, and curved down through the town and landed somewhere not very far out.

113
00:24:51,020 --> 00:25:02,330
All the cars seem to be quite recent. There's not so much sort of anywhere of the old Third World.

114
00:25:02,330 --> 00:25:10,840
Fume belching old bangers. I saw a couple of trucks going on the road this morning but all the cars in town seem to be quite modern.

115
00:25:10,840 --> 00:25:19,800
There's no certainly in this part of town, no immediate evidence of poverty and nobody's come begging.

116
00:25:19,800 --> 00:25:33,060
[...] which is in a modern bank building which has walls lined with [...].

117
00:25:33,060 --> 00:25:50,970
I was actually led from my taxi to the door by a marching doorman, with a baton under his arm, who did a highly military march and salute at me as I went in.

118
00:25:50,970 --> 00:27:44,950
[inaudible - describing a drink?]

119
00:27:44,950 --> 00:28:10,750
They're rather fond of flambée and chocolate mousse. [inaudible]

120
00:28:00,000 --> 00:28:10,750
You know you were you were saying to me that the parliament building was built before independence.

121
00:28:10,750 --> 00:28:15,410
Can you remember exactly when it was built that year?

122
00:28:15,410 --> 00:28:23,660
Moreover, yes. I can't remember when independence was.

123
00:28:23,660 --> 00:28:34,190
[inaudible[ 1963. Oh, as recently as that.

124
00:28:34,190 --> 00:28:42,180
[inaudible]

125
00:28:42,180 --> 00:28:50,720
All right. All of these hotels, the big hotels in town, the Hilton, the intercontinental hotels,

126
00:28:50,720 --> 00:28:55,630
they were built much more recently, obviously after everything changed.

127
00:28:55,630 --> 00:29:24,590
[inaudible]

128
00:29:24,590 --> 00:29:34,910
And the last few years or in the late 1960s. [inaudible]

129
00:29:34,910 --> 00:29:45,660
And after an unofficial taxi is called a matatu. How do you spell that? M-A-T-A-T-U.

130
00:29:45,660 --> 00:29:50,160
So matatu means 37.

131
00:29:50,160 --> 00:29:54,390
In the Kikuyu tribe. In the Kikiuyu language.

132
00:29:54,390 --> 00:30:00,300
We are calling it matatu because it can't charge more than 36.

133
00:30:00,300 --> 00:30:03,810
So it's always 36? [inaudible]

134
00:30:03,810 --> 00:30:08,970
[inaudible] It costs more now? It costs more now, but it still has the same name.

135
00:30:08,970 --> 00:30:18,810
The same name, [...] because of federal government [inaudible].

136
00:30:18,810 --> 00:30:28,770
Are you a Kikuyu? I'm a Kikuyu by clan, yes. So you normally speak Kikuyu amongst your friends or do you speak Swahili?

137
00:30:28,770 --> 00:30:40,080
When I met one of my tribe, then Kikuyu, yeah, somebody from another tribe would pick Swahili language.

138
00:30:40,080 --> 00:30:51,490
Yeah. So can you tell from looking at somebody or his tribe or? Yes, if they can do, I can tell if they can.

139
00:30:51,490 --> 00:31:04,260
[...]

140
00:31:04,260 --> 00:31:12,840
What's the difference in the face? What does a Kikuyu look like?

141
00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:30,260
But how do you how do you how would you explain it? The Kikuyu look.

142
00:31:30,260 --> 00:31:37,920
[inaudible - about skin colours?]

143
00:31:37,920 --> 00:31:44,060
Yeah, you know where they come from, Kisumu? Is Kisumu a different tribe?

144
00:31:44,060 --> 00:31:55,280
Yeah, yeah. [...] And what about a Luo or Maasai?

145
00:31:50,020 --> 00:31:55,280
[inaudible]

146
00:31:55,280 --> 00:32:01,230
[inaudible] They never where Western suits?

147
00:32:01,230 --> 00:32:26,090
No. No? What do they wear? They have they [inaudible].

148
00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:26,090
Oh, so it's just like a loincloth?

149
00:32:26,090 --> 00:32:36,250
And what about the other, there are manym tribes in Kenya. Too many. Too many? Well, you can't help that, that's just the people who live here.

150
00:32:36,250 --> 00:32:41,000
That's just natural, isn't it? I would say the majority are Kikuyu.

151
00:32:41,000 --> 00:33:01,020
[inaudible]

152
00:33:01,020 --> 00:33:09,330
But the president is not a Kikuyu is he? [inaudible]

153
00:33:09,330 --> 00:33:27,570
So what tribe is he? [inaudible]

154
00:33:17,000 --> 00:33:27,569
And what does his tribe look like? [inaudible]

155
00:33:27,570 --> 00:33:39,150
They actually cut the skin of the ear? [inaudible] And they put something in it? An earring or something?

156
00:33:39,150 --> 00:33:54,830
[inaudible] Where does the Swahili language origionally come from?

157
00:33:54,830 --> 00:34:22,880
[inaudible] But they're not really a tribe though are? Are they really a tribe, the Swahili people? [inaudible]

158
00:34:22,880 --> 00:34:34,640
And is that the same in Malindi, Lamur [inaudible]

159
00:34:34,640 --> 00:34:44,120
But they are not really a tribe like the Luo and the Kikuyu, are they? Are they really a tribe? The Swahili people?

160
00:34:44,120 --> 00:34:52,400
But normally in Mombasa, many of them because, when they meet they speak Swahili.

161
00:34:52,400 --> 00:35:06,650
We here, if I met one of my tribe, I speak my language, but there, when they meet, they speak Swahili.

162
00:35:06,650 --> 00:35:47,550
[inaudible]

163
00:35:11,000 --> 00:35:36,470
Oh so it's not the natural colour of the stone? It's some kind of funny pink coloured paint. So even the natural stone is a very nice colour? [inaudible]

164
00:35:39,000 --> 00:35:45,000
[... ...], that's the big purple tree I've just seen.

165
00:35:45,000 --> 00:35:47,549
How many kilometres from the town did you say it was?

166
00:35:47,550 --> 00:35:51,410
Well, I think it's something like between 10 and 11.

167
00:35:51,410 --> 00:35:58,440
OK, we're just driving out to the brewery. It's about 10 or 11 kilometres out of town.

168
00:35:58,440 --> 00:36:13,230
We passed the city park and the area where all the ambassadors live a wealthy suburb, lots of [...] trees and lots of purple trees.

169
00:36:13,230 --> 00:36:34,330
Now in this very densely wooded valley where the brewery is.

170
00:36:23,000 --> 00:36:34,329
[inaudible] You have a total of three breweries and the company is called Kenya Breweries Ltd.

171
00:36:34,330 --> 00:36:41,920
Yes, that is the operating company right now. [inaudible]

172
00:36:41,920 --> 00:36:56,200
And it used to also run a brewery in Tanzania.

173
00:36:56,200 --> 00:37:19,840
[inaudible] So it's three breweries in Kenya and one in Uganda, the parent company. [inaudible]

174
00:37:17,000 --> 00:37:19,840
This is a very modern building.

175
00:37:19,840 --> 00:37:27,190
This office building, isn't it? When was it built?

176
00:37:27,190 --> 00:37:38,060
This building? 1972. 72?

177
00:37:38,060 --> 00:37:44,540
What are these white trees with the white flowers, are they cherry trees? I don't know the name.

178
00:37:44,540 --> 00:37:51,740
Sorry, I didn't know the name of that. It's a very beautiful location.

179
00:37:51,740 --> 00:38:01,680
So many different kinds of trees. The office block is called Tusker House.

180
00:38:01,680 --> 00:38:06,000
With a row of very smart looking clean Mercedes-Benz parked outside.

181
00:38:06,000 --> 00:38:16,320
It will be a golf course. So the head office and the brewery itself will be separated by a golf course.

182
00:38:16,320 --> 00:38:25,790
Brewery's white painted building. They use Leyland Landtrains to haul the beer. On the side of the

183
00:38:25,790 --> 00:38:30,180
Tuska(?), and then on the truck door it says Kenya breweries.

184
00:38:30,180 --> 00:38:50,720
What is the capacity of the brewery? [inaudible] Two million hectres? [inaudible] That's very big.

185
00:38:50,720 --> 00:39:02,450
What about your other two breweries, are they smaller? [inaudible]

186
00:39:02,450 --> 00:39:11,320
1.8 million cases, from this brewery, in a month, one month. And the others about 300, 200.

187
00:39:11,320 --> 00:39:17,340
[inaudible] the entire group we do about 2.2 million cases.

188
00:39:17,340 --> 00:39:27,660
Where do you get your malt from? From another another plant in the industrial area, which you own 100 percent. So you do have your own malting?

189
00:39:27,660 --> 00:39:39,180
We have our own barley growing programme, we grow all our barley. In Kenya? In Kenya. And to subsidise the growing, we [...].

190
00:39:39,180 --> 00:39:45,570
So you don't own the farms? We do not own the farms. The farmers keep the farms, they grow the barley for us.

191
00:39:45,570 --> 00:39:49,500
And they bring it to us and we purchase it.

192
00:39:49,500 --> 00:39:53,980
And we take the cost of production which we are [...].

193
00:39:53,980 --> 00:40:02,400
And then the balance is better. Who do they lease the farm from? They own their own farms.

194
00:40:02,400 --> 00:40:13,000
Or, they [inaudible].

195
00:40:13,000 --> 00:40:22,760
So the malting system's here in Nairobi, it's not very far away.

196
00:40:17,040 --> 00:40:22,760
[inaudible] I see, 20 miles away.

197
00:40:22,760 --> 00:40:59,830
And do you use [...] barley or [...] barley. [inaudible] What variety is it?

198
00:40:32,420 --> 00:40:41,000
[inaudible, discusses types of barley]

199
00:40:41,000 --> 00:40:52,000
[inaudible] And Australian crops for research.

200
00:40:52,000 --> 00:40:59,829
I understand you come from the East originally. [inaudible]

201
00:40:59,830 --> 00:41:08,020
Yeah, yeah. [inaudible]

202
00:41:08,020 --> 00:41:12,760
Where did you grow up? In Turin. [inaudible]

203
00:41:12,760 --> 00:41:19,770
Yeah, that's yeah. [inaudible]

204
00:41:19,770 --> 00:41:30,130
That's were I grew up, and I was drafted into the army when I was 15, and then I was a prisoner of war, and I never went back.

205
00:41:30,130 --> 00:41:31,980
Where were you a prisoner of war?

206
00:41:31,980 --> 00:41:43,430
[inaudible] I was caught by the Americans and handed over to the British. And that was the end of the war?

207
00:41:43,430 --> 00:42:06,130
Yeah, yeah, it was 45. And then did you come straight to Kenya afterwards?

208
00:41:47,430 --> 00:41:55,600
No, no, I was in training in Germany. And I left Germany in 52, went to Switzerland, Zurich, [inaudible] for two years, and then I came up here, I came here in 55.

209
00:42:06,130 --> 00:42:12,370
So where did you train in Germany? In [...]

210
00:42:12,370 --> 00:42:17,610
Oh yes, yeah, I know it. And then I went, it was more laborious,

211
00:42:17,610 --> 00:42:26,930
[inaudible]

212
00:42:26,930 --> 00:42:36,470
Yeah, yeah. But the one I worked for a while, I was in charge [inaudible].

213
00:42:36,470 --> 00:42:52,250
What's the capacity of this brewery? [inaudible] It's very big eh? Oh yes, it's very big. So is this one brewing line or two brewing lines? Two. We do here in two.

214
00:42:52,250 --> 00:42:57,470
Well, it is a mixture between decoction and infusion basing.

215
00:42:57,470 --> 00:43:02,900
So it's a step infusion? Yeah. And,

216
00:43:02,900 --> 00:43:13,090
[inaudible]

217
00:43:13,090 --> 00:43:25,540
So it's two mash vessels, in traditional copper design, and are made of copper, and two copper brew kettles as well.

218
00:43:25,540 --> 00:43:32,620
One [...] on a yellow tiled mezzanine. And you also have a strain master as well.

219
00:43:32,620 --> 00:43:38,920
And the whole thing operates as two brewing lines. [inaudible]

220
00:43:38,920 --> 00:43:44,360
Oh, I see. And what's the size of a single brew?

221
00:43:44,360 --> 00:44:00,430
Now single brew, we do heavy brewing. You high gravity brewing? By using a syrup, which we make ourselves, our own [...].

222
00:44:00,430 --> 00:44:09,040
So you can the syrup it made of barley. So obviously you're using [inaudible]

223
00:44:09,040 --> 00:44:18,940
We convert into barley syrup, our plant is next door, and we use it [...] into the copper.

224
00:44:18,940 --> 00:44:27,070
So what's the percentage of barley malt and what the percentage of barley syrup? That varies.

225
00:44:27,070 --> 00:44:35,060
Again, we do add sugar in certain brands, depends on the brand of beer. What kind of sugar is that? Cane sugar, I suppose?

226
00:44:35,060 --> 00:44:50,180
Well, we normally use cane sugar, but unfortunately at the moment we are very short, we got some imported.

227
00:44:43,000 --> 00:44:50,180
And what what kind of hops do you use? We use mainly Hallertau and Styrian.

228
00:44:50,180 --> 00:44:56,060
Styrian, but the Styrian is German hops as well, it's Styrian grown in [...].

229
00:44:56,060 --> 00:45:10,570
So they use Hallertau grown in Hallertau, and Styrian grown in [inaudible], Styrian grown in Hallertau as well.

230
00:45:02,220 --> 00:45:10,570
And the Hallertau, are they the Hallertau aroma type, or both? We use the bitter hop and aroma, and blend it.

231
00:45:10,570 --> 00:45:16,400
It depends on what brand it is. We do five different brands of beer [inaudible].

232
00:45:16,400 --> 00:45:21,500
[inaudible] Afterwards I'd like to go through the brands with you.

233
00:45:21,500 --> 00:45:30,660
Yeah. But you use hop pellets I suppose? Pellets and extract. [inaudible]

234
00:45:30,660 --> 00:45:35,130
Could I take some photographs? [inaudible]

235
00:45:35,130 --> 00:45:42,113
But does that make life difficult? It certainly does, because they aren't understanding about various things like,

236
00:45:42,113 --> 00:45:46,960
cleaning [inaudible]

237
00:45:46,960 --> 00:45:51,330
And you were telling me about the size of brew?

238
00:45:51,330 --> 00:45:59,040
Nine, nine hundred hecto [...].

239
00:45:59,040 --> 00:46:05,350
So what's the capacity of the brew kettle then? Seven hundred fifty hectolitres.

240
00:46:05,350 --> 00:46:12,720
And after that, we [inaudible].

241
00:46:12,720 --> 00:46:19,380
We've got so much capacity and accommodation, it's okay, we've got enough. So you do all the brewing in this one brew house?

242
00:46:19,380 --> 00:46:27,590
Yeah, I mean, all the brewing at this plant. There are two streams, each run 900 hectos every two hours. Every two hours?

243
00:46:27,590 --> 00:46:35,000
Wow. Yeah, this is [...]. They're really rather nice vessels, aren't they?

244
00:46:35,000 --> 00:46:44,260
When were these vessels installed? This one, they are put in 64,

245
00:46:44,260 --> 00:47:02,950
This is [...] made on in 73 if I recall. Very nice looking, are they made in Germany? No, they are Belgium.

246
00:46:54,980 --> 00:47:02,950
The country Belgium. Well we've got a bit of a problem, is they've changed hands, it's now [???]

247
00:47:02,950 --> 00:47:11,170
All right. I know you have your own maltings.

248
00:47:11,170 --> 00:47:17,140
And is all the malt you use pale malt? Do you just use one kind of malt? One kind of malt, yes.

249
00:47:17,140 --> 00:47:24,160
It's all one. [inaudible]

250
00:47:24,160 --> 00:47:33,890
Did you ever make top-fermenting beers in this brewery?

251
00:47:27,000 --> 00:47:33,889
Not in this brewery, we did when we made Skinner's on the Light(?).

252
00:47:33,890 --> 00:47:46,470
That's the only time? Yes. But they didn't, in the early days of the brewery they didn't make their own ales or stouts?

253
00:47:40,000 --> 00:47:46,469
Oh they did, yes, but they couldn't ferment it. Oh, I see.

254
00:47:46,470 --> 00:47:53,720
These are not fermenters, they're just holding vessels? They are collecting, we collect the beer from the brewer,

255
00:47:53,720 --> 00:48:04,340
[inaudible] So you do pitch the yeast in these vessels? These are, we're talking about high gravity brewing here,

256
00:48:04,340 --> 00:48:10,490
And these vessels are vessels in which, first of all, the gravity is reduced and then the yeast is pitch.

257
00:48:10,490 --> 00:48:21,270
They're tile clad in sort of onduline tiles and then covered in breadloaf shaped stainless steel. Made in Nairobi.

258
00:48:21,270 --> 00:48:29,760
Locally made? They're very, very good looking, vessels. All our vessels here are locally made. What's the capacity of each one of these?

259
00:48:29,760 --> 00:48:38,710
They were originally designed for one rule, which was high gravity brewing, we need one big one and about four small ones.

260
00:48:38,710 --> 00:48:49,600
We put about 600 hecto in and 300 hecto in the small one. So some are 300 hecto and some are 600 hecto?

261
00:48:49,600 --> 00:48:55,540
Yeah. What have you got in here, about ten of them?

262
00:48:55,540 --> 00:49:03,760
So it's twelve. [inaudible] Where does your yeast come from?

263
00:49:03,760 --> 00:49:20,300
We have now yeast which was developed for our brewery, it's very fast fermenting yeast,

264
00:49:14,000 --> 00:49:20,299
Operates at a relatively high temperature, 60*C.

265
00:49:20,300 --> 00:49:26,480
And ferments, in seven hours to actually [...], so we have no secondary fermentation.

266
00:49:26,480 --> 00:49:38,930
No, I see. But fermentation takes, is in three days to actual use the gravity down and another two days for cooling, so turns out it's only about five days.

267
00:49:38,930 --> 00:49:46,580
Yes, so it's a single stage fermentation. You don't add any wort in the middle of fermentation?

268
00:49:46,580 --> 00:49:54,300
No, no, [...], or nothing. [inaudible]

269
00:49:54,300 --> 00:49:59,730
And then we drive the [inaudible].

270
00:49:59,730 --> 00:50:06,550
Ah, before storage? Yeah, well, it's then adjusted again before [...].

271
00:50:06,550 --> 00:50:11,470
But do you take CO2 off these vessels? Yes, from the fermenting vessels, yeah.

272
00:50:11,470 --> 00:50:17,110
[inaudible]

273
00:50:17,110 --> 00:50:24,040
[inaudible]

274
00:50:24,040 --> 00:50:28,960
[inaudible]

275
00:50:28,960 --> 00:50:33,760
And then we leave it as long as we can, until we need it for the next brew,

276
00:50:33,760 --> 00:50:44,510
to have some of the sediment. You repropagate your own yeast?

277
00:50:44,510 --> 00:51:00,800
And how many times, once you've propagated it, how many times do you use it?

278
00:50:48,000 --> 00:51:00,799
We use usually do it about, ten twelve times. Or, if it's infected, we dispense of it.

279
00:51:00,800 --> 00:51:20,250
Do you have a lot of problems with being in such a hot country? Not really, no. Because the brewery's cool of course. [inaudible]

280
00:51:20,250 --> 00:51:40,120
And the yeast is just a regular single-cell pure culture lager yeast. Yes, yes.

281
00:51:30,640 --> 00:51:40,120
Some are used only in fermentation tanks, some are used as both. But is all your fermentation in this type of tank?

282
00:51:40,120 --> 00:51:45,400
No, some is the same as the collecting vessels.

283
00:51:45,400 --> 00:51:53,950
These combi tanks we're looking at now from a floor above where they're, the tops actually pierce the floor,

284
00:51:53,950 --> 00:52:03,260
they're just dome shaped white painted tops.

285
00:52:03,260 --> 00:52:11,360
Did allied Breweries used to won this company? No. She was founded in 1922? Yes. By two brothers who were farmers.

286
00:52:11,360 --> 00:52:21,650
[inaudible]

287
00:52:19,000 --> 00:52:21,649
So were they British or were they Kenyan?

288
00:52:21,650 --> 00:52:32,780
Well, they are British farmers settled in Kenya.

289
00:52:25,230 --> 00:52:32,780
It's very interesting actually, one of them got killed by an elephant while out hunting.

290
00:52:32,780 --> 00:52:40,460
He was killed by an elephant, squashed. And in memory, the other brother called the beer Tusker.

291
00:52:40,460 --> 00:52:49,610
It's a funny idea, to name a beer in honour of the elephant that killed his brother.

292
00:52:49,610 --> 00:52:56,120
And that is how the name came about. These outdoor tanks, these are uni tanks as well, are they?

293
00:52:56,120 --> 00:52:59,840
Yes. These are the sort of rigid type of outdoor tanks.

294
00:52:59,840 --> 00:53:07,130
They're insulated. And all this land around here, does this land belong to the brewery? Yes, this is all Tusker Village,

295
00:53:07,130 --> 00:53:14,240
And we've got new flats for the staff up there. That's the new glasswork.

296
00:53:14,240 --> 00:53:18,510
That is ours as well. You own your own glassware? Well, we're building it, it's not running yet.

297
00:53:18,510 --> 00:53:30,740
We had problems with the local supplier. And what's Tusker village? Is that where the staff all live? That's staff, yeah.

298
00:53:25,440 --> 00:53:30,739
Is that normal in Kenya, for a large company to have a village for it's own staff?

299
00:53:30,740 --> 00:53:37,290
Not really, but houses [inaudible]

300
00:53:37,290 --> 00:53:45,260
We've got several estates within town for our staff. And, we rebought,

301
00:53:45,260 --> 00:54:03,650
When I first came here, there was this brewery plus the Mombosa brewery. They both belonged to Kina[?] breweries.

302
00:53:51,990 --> 00:53:56,210
Plus the brewery in [...]. And then we had two rival breweries [...] and City Breweries.

303
00:53:59,000 --> 00:54:03,649
[...] we bought up in 1963.

304
00:54:03,650 --> 00:54:10,160
And that's where our connection with the other brewery comes from. They were in contacts with other breweries.

305
00:54:10,160 --> 00:54:25,010
And when we bought them, we took their technical service department over revised it.

306
00:54:16,030 --> 00:54:25,010
And then we bought City Brewery in 1970, closed City Brewery down straight away, and then we closed down Alsopes 2 years ago.

307
00:54:25,010 --> 00:54:36,950
Oh, as recently as that? Yes, Alsopes. But Alsopes was, for the last, ten, twelve, years or so, only brewing [...]

308
00:54:36,950 --> 00:54:40,370
And you also have a brewery in Kisumu?

309
00:54:40,370 --> 00:54:42,410
Yes, well that's a new brewery.

310
00:54:42,410 --> 00:55:11,960
We built that only four years ago. But there has been a brewery on this side for a long time since 1922 in Nairobi.

311
00:54:50,200 --> 00:54:59,530
And the Mombasa one also? The Mombasa one was built in 1952. [inaudible]

312
00:55:00,530 --> 00:55:03,970
And you can see, more or less, Nairobi, over there.

313
00:55:06,970 --> 00:55:11,959
[inaudible]

314
00:55:11,960 --> 00:55:22,410
Ah yes, that's R-U-A-R-A-K-A.

315
00:55:18,000 --> 00:55:22,409
And what happens down there, is it just wild country or is it being used?

316
00:55:22,410 --> 00:55:28,610
It's used for bananas, and they grow maize, it's just that we own the land.

317
00:55:28,610 --> 00:55:37,030
And opposite the land is [inaudible]. But you rent the land out to the people who live there?

318
00:55:37,030 --> 00:55:40,760
[inaudible]

319
00:55:40,760 --> 00:55:57,370
So who grows the bananas and the maize? Well the people [inaudible].

320
00:55:43,710 --> 00:55:51,770
So it's just sort of free land really? You own it, but it's uh- But only up to the river. [inaudible]

321
00:55:57,370 --> 00:56:02,410
It's really a very small river, isn't it? Does it flow into the bigger river?

322
00:56:02,410 --> 00:56:06,230
Yes, it goes down to the Athi. The Athi River.

323
00:56:06,230 --> 00:56:11,130
Athi? Athi. How do you spell that? A-T-H-I. Ah, yes.

324
00:56:11,130 --> 00:56:21,210
Which then goes down to, it's then called the Galana River, and then it changes name several times. [inuadible]

325
00:56:21,210 --> 00:56:30,020
[inaudible] Very often they change the name of the river, for that reason, it's still the same river.

326
00:56:30,020 --> 00:56:35,560
I see. There are a lot of trees around here, lots of different colour.

327
00:56:35,560 --> 00:56:40,300
In fact, in Nairobi as a whole, I see the great many different sorts of trees.

328
00:56:40,300 --> 00:56:45,220
Yeah, but very few indigenous. Most of them are this new coming country.

329
00:56:45,220 --> 00:56:49,960
Really? Well, what are these trees down here?

330
00:56:49,960 --> 00:57:00,490
What are some of the varieties, you know? Well, I'm not all that, I don't know all that much about trees to be quite honest.

331
00:57:00,490 --> 00:57:18,280
I know you've a few of them, but you've got a lot of [inaudible]

332
00:57:18,280 --> 00:57:30,220
The hakwarana trees they must be Mexico, I suppose. But I got a book at home [inaudible].

333
00:57:30,220 --> 00:57:36,100
The way was the actual, the brewery, as it stands at the moment, when was it built?

334
00:57:36,100 --> 00:57:48,490
[inaudible] Finished in 76, 77. Which part? This one outside the building.

335
00:57:48,490 --> 00:57:55,570
[inaudible] The one inside, I think 74.

336
00:57:55,570 --> 00:58:17,016
And this this tall palm. [inaudible] Ah, I see. What's the oldest part of the brewery and what's the newest part?

337
00:58:06,470 --> 00:58:14,020
Well the oldest part is where the brewing oven is, that was still, a brewers when I first came, the oldest part.

338
00:58:17,016 --> 00:58:27,040
I see. The oldest part, that used to brew house where the [inaudible]. When you came up right into the brewhouse, on the left and, that is the oldest part.

339
00:58:27,040 --> 00:58:30,340
So does that go back to the beginning of the brewery, do you think?

340
00:58:30,340 --> 00:58:36,760
Yes, it does. Right? Well now, Mr. Hurtz,

341
00:58:36,760 --> 00:58:44,950
the other one, he died about 10 years ago, 12 years ago. I remember when he came up [inaudible].

342
00:58:44,950 --> 00:58:53,170
His wife died last month. One daughter was living here, and they came only last year again around the brewery.

343
00:58:53,170 --> 00:59:07,840
The wife of the founder of the brewery, and talking about, if she remembered right,

344
00:58:58,970 --> 00:59:07,840
there's a wall down there, that is one of the original walls when the brewery was built. I see.

345
00:59:07,840 --> 00:59:13,540
So who owns the brewery now? But it's shareholdings. It's a public company.

346
00:59:13,540 --> 00:59:23,680
We've got 7000 shareholders, I'm one of them. All of our staff, well, most of them are shareholders,

347
00:59:20,430 --> 00:59:23,680
Does staff mean all employees? All employees.

348
00:59:23,680 --> 00:59:32,930
[inaudible]

349
00:59:32,930 --> 00:59:53,250
Yeah. So how many people live in Tusker Village? Well, there's the village and there are some extensions, new flats, which of course all belong to us. There must be about 700 hundred I must think.

350
00:59:53,250 --> 01:00:04,440
Don't take my word for it. A few hundred. Yeah. How many people does the brewery employ? Again, in this brewery about 1200.

351
01:00:04,440 --> 01:00:13,620
Then transport is separate. And of course we've got all our other, we've got our transport workshop over in [...].

352
01:00:13,620 --> 01:00:25,110
And the more things. In total, this doubles, we've got [...] the total is about 4000. That includes the other two breweries?

353
01:00:25,110 --> 01:00:34,670
The other two breweries, and more things, and everything's about 4000, owned by [...].

354
01:00:34,670 --> 01:00:43,120
You have several different beers you make here. [inaudible]

355
01:00:43,120 --> 01:00:51,340
What is the the one that you're going to sell in America? Which one is that? The premium, Tusker Premium. Tusker Premium? Yes.

356
01:00:51,340 --> 01:00:55,540
So that's the same product that's sold as the premium here.

357
01:00:55,540 --> 01:01:17,580
Yes. [inaudible, tape cuts out] Alright, what's this all about then motherf---er?

358
01:01:17,580 --> 01:01:21,030
I think I've come to the end of the tape,

359
01:01:21,030 --> 01:01:29,280
I'm just talking about Tusker Premium, as it's known in Kenya, or Tusker Malt Lager, as it's probably going to be known in the US.

360
01:01:29,280 --> 01:01:43,950
What was the original gravity again? 10:43. 10:43? About 11 [inaudible].

361
01:01:43,950 --> 01:01:49,000
So there are some more of these Redlow, stainless steel, quite modern, Redlow fermenters.

362
01:01:49,000 --> 01:02:01,510
So the fermentation is in a mix of the Redlow, the converted, converted over to stainless steal Redlow,

363
01:02:01,510 --> 01:02:07,800
and the upright lagering type tanks, and the outdoor type tanks.

364
01:02:08,000 --> 01:02:14,610
Well, I think the outdoor are mainly used for lagering. We're just talking about the storage vessels now.

365
01:02:14,610 --> 01:02:17,460
Twelve hundred hack, three stories high.

366
01:02:17,460 --> 01:02:29,540
Sixteen on each side set into a white tiled, set into white tiled walls, the conicals are 1800 for fermentation and 2000 hectolitres for lager.

367
01:02:29,540 --> 01:02:37,810
And how long is this tank? About 120 feet. 120 feet, it looks even more than that.

368
01:02:37,810 --> 01:02:46,370
Yeah, I guess. Yeah. Okay. [inaudible]

369
01:02:46,370 --> 01:02:57,220
600 hectos [inaudible]

370
01:02:57,220 --> 01:03:11,160
[inaudible] so what we did, we just cut the end off, [inaudible]

371
01:03:11,160 --> 01:03:16,976
So when I said they're three stories high, it's actually three horizontal tanks on top of each other.

372
01:03:16,976 --> 01:03:39,020
So they're actually horizontal. That guy was saying, very, very long.

373
01:03:22,000 --> 01:03:27,890
Is this a [...] filter? That's right [inaudible].

374
01:03:32,000 --> 01:03:39,020
So everything is double filtered? You only do bottled beer, is that right? Only bottled.

375
01:03:39,020 --> 01:03:46,580
And it's obviously tunnel pasteurised. They're experimenting with keg beer.

376
01:03:46,580 --> 01:04:00,430
What's your water source for the brewery? Water source? Where do you get the water from? [inaudible]

377
01:04:00,430 --> 01:04:21,710
[inaudible] But the borehole water isn't suitable for brewing? No, it's not. [inaudible]

378
01:04:11,000 --> 01:04:21,709
What's the city water like? It's very good [inaudible].

379
01:04:21,710 --> 01:04:29,396
Just an interesting little point that because the brewhouse and bottling line works 24 hours a day,

380
01:04:29,396 --> 01:04:50,370
so does the laboratory.

381
01:04:34,260 --> 01:04:50,370
In 1985, Kenya Breweries got the second prize in class one, that was for Lagers of 7.5 to 10 percent,

382
01:04:50,370 --> 01:05:05,330
at The Brewing Industry International Awards. Is that a BrewX? It is in Britain anyway, isn't it?

383
01:05:00,000 --> 01:05:05,329
And it doesn't actually say where it took place, but I think it's a BrewX probably.

384
01:05:05,330 --> 01:05:17,460
And on the wall, there are a number of other awards, for Tusker Export, Tusker Lager Beer, and Tusker White Cap.

385
01:05:17,460 --> 01:05:25,840
But what is the total volume of beer that you're producing in all of your breweries in a year.

386
01:05:25,840 --> 01:05:32,840
Well, it's been going up all along, every ten months.

387
01:05:32,840 --> 01:05:37,360
We should now get well over three million hectolitres.

388
01:05:37,360 --> 01:05:45,829
So for this year, it'll be three million hectos plus? More than three million hectos in your three breweries?

389
01:05:45,830 --> 01:05:56,059
We are, you know, there's a boom in coffee and tea, more money available.

390
01:05:56,060 --> 01:06:13,110
[inaudible]

391
01:06:13,110 --> 01:06:18,950
[inaudible] What do people drink if they don't drink beer?

392
01:06:18,950 --> 01:06:25,130
Do they drink traditional beers? Yes, a little of course.

393
01:06:25,130 --> 01:06:30,530
But it's not allowed? No, not at all. [inaudible]

394
01:06:30,530 --> 01:06:42,740
Sorry? [inaudible]

395
01:06:42,740 --> 01:06:53,280
But if you make a fermented, a traditional fermented beverage, is that illegal? [inaudible]

396
01:06:53,280 --> 01:07:01,070
Not in general. So it's legal in controlled outlets? [inaudible]

397
01:07:01,070 --> 01:07:27,260
What do they make that out of? [inaudible] Sugar cane, fermented grape[?], maize sometimes.

398
01:07:15,070 --> 01:07:21,380
[inaudible] Each area has got it's own grain, whatever the grain is.

399
01:07:22,380 --> 01:07:27,260
And are these products clear or are they thick? Thick. They are thick products.

400
01:07:27,260 --> 01:07:55,570
[inaudible]

401
01:07:40,190 --> 01:07:55,569
From the sap of the pod? Yes. [inaudible] I've had coconut beer in Sri Lanka, which was actually very thick, the one I had in Sri Lanka. [inaudible]

402
01:07:55,570 --> 01:08:21,710
Yes, exactly. I can see that. [inaudible]

403
01:08:04,530 --> 01:08:09,560
Now this was made from the actual pod of the tree. [inaudible]

404
01:08:16,230 --> 01:08:21,709
B-I-A, new word, N-I, new word, B-O-R-A. 'Beer is best' it's Swahili

405
01:08:21,710 --> 01:08:33,630
The train's going to Mombasa, Kisumu, Malabar, a steam train.

406
01:08:33,630 --> 01:08:48,610
Kenya Railways have a circular logo on the side with a rampant lion on the railway line.

407
01:08:43,310 --> 01:08:48,600
In the window, there's my name.

408
01:08:48,610 --> 01:09:01,220
Christopher M. Jackson, compartment number E. It's a steam locomotive pulling us.

409
01:09:01,220 --> 01:09:06,590
The station's a curiously farm,

410
01:09:06,590 --> 01:09:29,730
it looks like a sort of farm grain store or something on the outside, it's got a series of [...], maybe 20 or more of them.

411
01:09:29,730 --> 01:09:44,720
The circumstances frequently happen. I was having a beer and the news came that the train would shortly depart.

412
01:09:44,720 --> 01:09:56,970
Luckily, I had at my disposal a Mercedes car and a driver, and we arrived in the nick of time.

413
01:09:56,970 --> 01:10:08,120
Well, I say the nick of time, there was usual time for the man that helped me with my baggage to haggle over the tip.

414
01:10:08,120 --> 01:10:19,020
My [inaudible] held out, he would have had to get off the train anyway.

415
01:10:19,020 --> 01:11:23,000
It seems to me that he was very [inaudible].

416
01:11:04,540 --> 01:11:19,290
Laminated plastic walls, compartment, couple of rather 1930s looking chrome light fittings.

417
01:11:23,000 --> 01:11:39,010
I'm on a 1950s looking train. I don't know how I'm going to meet anybody on this train.

418
01:11:39,010 --> 01:12:02,340
The bunk above my head is actually [...]. The whistle that sounded more like a ship's fog horn.

419
01:12:02,340 --> 01:12:17,480
Lots of handshakes through open windows. I was already warmly greeted by a couple of guys working in the kitchen, so.

420
01:12:17,480 --> 01:12:46,050
Inside of the station, the [inaudible].

421
01:12:29,360 --> 01:12:36,999
Made in England, I think made in Sheffield, posts, and they're rather like lamp posts,

422
01:12:37,000 --> 01:12:46,049
And they're painted in a sort of dark bluey institutional green.

423
01:12:46,050 --> 01:12:53,840
1912, I think it says. [inaudible]

424
01:12:53,840 --> 01:13:03,290
I'm at the station. A lot of waving and smiling and laughing.

425
01:13:03,290 --> 01:13:32,560
[inaudible]

426
01:13:08,860 --> 01:13:32,559
The station sign says Nairobi, 5453ft, and next to it is the third class lavatory gent's, and the third class lavatory lady's is next to that.

427
01:13:32,560 --> 01:13:49,410
People out on the tracks waving. Another sleeper train it's a diesel train damnit.

428
01:13:49,410 --> 01:14:01,890
Looks like steamers [inaudible]. Man just absolutely took it right into it's hands. Say something into it.

429
01:14:01,890 --> 01:14:06,930
What's your name? Well, my name is Charles Mora[?]. And you work on the train?

430
01:14:06,930 --> 01:14:17,770
I work on the train. Only now do I feel my journey has really begun after all of those dramas.

431
01:14:17,770 --> 01:14:26,730
Small houses, single story houses, that have got a stone

432
01:14:26,730 --> 01:14:34,760
lower half and then a wide rendered top half and a pantile roof. And lots of fields of corn.

433
01:14:34,760 --> 01:14:40,100
There are people walking home from work.

434
01:14:40,100 --> 01:14:51,290
Little children are waving and jumping and shouting with delight at the train.

435
01:14:46,000 --> 01:14:51,290
Whatever, in the form of [...] is universal.

436
01:14:51,290 --> 01:14:58,160
Walking along the side of an unmade track along the side of the railway track, an unmade path, on their way home.

437
01:14:58,160 --> 01:15:10,790
There were ladies sitting cross-legged selling fruit and ve+getables, but I couldn't really see what. There are more brick bungalows with

438
01:15:10,790 --> 01:15:18,870
are they pantile? I suppose they are pantile roofs.

439
01:15:14,420 --> 01:15:18,320
The conductor came and, he's coming along.

440
01:15:18,870 --> 01:15:24,690
Somebody wanted to go to the loo and he's smiling as though you go to the look first and look at your ticket later.

441
01:15:24,690 --> 01:15:31,320
When he came to me, he laboriously wrote out several details from the ticket,

442
01:15:31,320 --> 01:15:35,550
including a photo with a single ticket and then said to me, 'Well, there you are, it's all yours.

443
01:15:35,550 --> 01:15:40,650
You're all alone.' I said, 'You think I'll find anybody to talk to?' And he said

444
01:15:40,650 --> 01:15:54,920
'No problem,' smiling broadly. The conductor is wearing a sort of peach coloured cotton suit draped with rather fetching white shoes.

445
01:15:54,920 --> 01:15:59,400
I must find out what Jambo means.

446
01:15:59,400 --> 01:16:10,890
The Jambo man brought me a bar of soap, it's actually called elephant soap, and they've done a series of packages on KenyaTribes.

447
01:16:10,890 --> 01:16:21,230
This one is on the Maasai Moran. That's M-double A-S-A-I and Moran as in the Irish surname.

448
01:16:21,230 --> 01:16:35,410
He's a fierce looking chap with some strange headdress on. [inaudible] put it in the drinking water.

449
01:16:35,410 --> 01:16:44,010
Alcove, which has a door on it but the doors been left open, there's a little pump in there, on tap, pump myself some water.

450
01:16:44,010 --> 01:17:07,040
A big number of shanty towns. There's a lot of toing and froing in the corridor.

451
01:16:51,000 --> 01:17:07,040
Within twenty minutes, we're in an area of scrubby grasslands, dappled with thorn trees.

452
01:17:07,040 --> 01:18:24,750
Those children I mentioned along the  [inaudible], as though they were in the jungle.

453
01:17:18,060 --> 01:17:22,969
They're very tiny, and some were holding other children.

454
01:17:22,970 --> 01:17:32,600
The way that the train, an old sign saying stop and wait, stop and await the signal.

455
01:17:33,830 --> 01:17:56,120
Somebody threw a curious [inaudible]. Signal box, [inaudible].

456
01:18:02,770 --> 01:18:12,319
Coming through a very flat land, very very, long the horizon, the hills, they're not particularly big,

457
01:18:12,320 --> 01:18:24,750
in the very far distance, barely visible through the haze of the sun and dust mixing together.

458
01:18:24,750 --> 01:18:56,870
The sun retreats, retreating sun. [inaudible]

459
01:18:56,870 --> 01:19:00,850
I've been in the train for half an hour, I think I'll see if I can find the bar.

460
01:19:00,850 --> 01:19:08,780
I just passed a sign saying [...] one two five five nine metres [...].

461
01:19:08,780 --> 01:19:17,180
One of those [inaudible] things again to the signal man or station master.

462
01:19:17,180 --> 01:19:24,560
Just noticed some cactus growing by the side of the track.

463
01:19:24,560 --> 01:19:33,880
And we passed a little house with hens running around and a couple of dogs sleeping in the yard, snoozing.

464
01:19:33,880 --> 01:19:55,840
We just passed a little diesel engine called Hunslet. [inaudible]

465
01:19:55,840 --> 01:20:12,690
So if you're senior staff you get a brick or stone staff with a tiled roof, and if you're not senior you get a little round, sort of pyramid-type.

466
01:20:12,690 --> 01:20:33,320
Do you know what sort of trees these are? Are they poplar trees? What kind of trees are they? [inaudible]

467
01:20:33,320 --> 01:20:38,560
[inaudible] I couldn't see what she was selling.

468
01:20:38,560 --> 01:20:52,330
Just sitting by the, because there were people walking by the side of a railway. [inaudible]

469
01:20:52,330 --> 01:21:04,840
[inaudible] No, no, I'm not sure. Oh mangos, yeah.

470
01:21:04,840 --> 01:21:09,070
[inaudible]

471
01:21:09,070 --> 01:21:23,980
Yes, I notice a lot of maize growing. [inaudible]

472
01:21:23,980 --> 01:21:30,160
A lot of rain, yeah. [inaudible] But we're outside Nairobi now, aren't we?

473
01:21:30,160 --> 01:21:38,620
We're not in Nairobi anymore [inaudible], Oh, I see.

474
01:21:38,620 --> 01:21:56,540
Is Nairobi a county as well as being a city? [inaudible] So a sort of administrative area?

475
01:21:56,540 --> 01:22:33,620
[inaudible]

476
01:22:33,620 --> 01:22:44,870
We just went past a place where there's supposedly [...].

477
01:22:44,870 --> 01:22:52,150
According to a rather [...] lady at the next table who seems to be an expert on corned beef and a great devotee of it as well.

478
01:22:52,150 --> 01:23:02,870
But they were having an unimaginable discussion about the merits of different ways of [...] , and I don't know whether I got on tape.

479
01:23:02,870 --> 01:23:07,820
I don't know whether I got on tape the bit about the station staff get to live in

480
01:23:07,820 --> 01:23:16,310
cream-painted, tiled-roofed, bungalows,

481
01:23:16,310 --> 01:23:25,510
whereas the lower level staff live in strange sort of,

482
01:23:25,510 --> 01:23:34,370
well a circular metal building with conical roofs.

483
01:23:34,370 --> 01:23:44,730
I can't imagine how this lady knows about all this stuff, but somebody said 'It's a horrible pong' and she said,

484
01:23:44,730 --> 01:23:51,180
'Yes it's a meat factory.' [inaudible]

485
01:23:51,180 --> 01:24:07,190
She's knitting, while she makes all these pronouncements. It's a low, bluey, blue-grey-blue-black sky.

486
01:24:07,190 --> 01:24:21,790
And the eerily iridescent amber-pink sunset.

487
01:24:21,790 --> 01:24:45,850
In the distance are the hills on one side, and a little [...] on the other side. They are pink and mauve, and they

488
01:24:45,850 --> 01:24:57,740
blend into the sunset. It's nearly 16:13 he says, I suppose, I made a note on here that it was a five o'clock train.

489
01:24:57,740 --> 01:25:05,950
I don't know. Dinner's to be served at quarter past seven. At this time of year, it gets dark very quickly.

490
01:25:05,950 --> 01:25:13,250
It gets dark very quickly. When did you say that at other times of year, it stays light all night?

491
01:25:13,250 --> 01:25:17,680
No, well,, it's getting dark very quickly at the moment.

492
01:25:17,680 --> 01:25:23,650
But did you say that in other seasons of the year, it stays light for most of them?

493
01:25:23,650 --> 01:25:28,560
[inaudible]

494
01:25:28,560 --> 01:25:45,910
It's all the same all year round? [inaudible]

495
01:25:45,910 --> 01:25:54,260
Yes, yes. It's called the Savannah. This area with all the scrub and thorn trees.

496
01:25:54,260 --> 01:26:06,180
Sometimes it's a little hard to distinguish between the thorn trees on the horizon and the small herds of deer.

497
01:26:06,180 --> 01:26:20,410
Savannah, eventually National Park  land. We're at station called Kapiti Plains, K-A-P-I-T-I.

498
01:26:15,440 --> 01:26:20,409
1632 Kilometres.

499
01:26:20,410 --> 01:26:39,480
[inaudible] Like the big rabbits? [inaudible]

500
01:26:39,480 --> 01:27:00,270
Maybe those were buffalos they looked pretty big. [inaudible]

501
01:27:00,270 --> 01:27:50,920
[inaudible]

502
01:27:25,820 --> 01:27:32,529
By seven o'clock, it was difficult to pick out anything much anymore, it was too dark.

503
01:27:32,530 --> 01:27:42,850
There's eight people sitting down for dinner. [inaudible] Cream of asparagus soup, chilled tomatoed juice, served with

504
01:27:50,920 --> 01:28:18,820
baby carrots and cabbage, or a sort of rice with garnishes, or jaliugal na nyama.

505
01:28:10,260 --> 01:28:18,819
Fresh fruit salad, coffee, or tea.

506
01:28:18,820 --> 01:28:31,630
And nyama is meat.  And here I can just remind myself that the single train fare from Nairobi to Mombasa was 428 shillings.

507
01:28:31,630 --> 01:28:50,560
And I also had a meal for 55 shillings and I had a glass of whisky for 28 shillings.

508
01:28:50,560 --> 01:29:13,840
A strange man crossed me on the forehead [inaudible].

509
01:29:13,840 --> 01:29:27,090
A few simple instructions in Swahili.

510
01:29:17,980 --> 01:29:27,090
All the staff sat down and had their meal. It looks like, the station in Nairobi looks like it was built by farmers.

511
01:29:27,090 --> 01:29:36,780
It all makes sense wouldn't it, I suppose the people of Kenya came as farmers.

512
01:29:36,780 --> 01:30:19,260
He keeps saying something about wanting to discuss politics with me [inaudible].

513
01:30:19,260 --> 01:30:27,690
And out of the windows there's already vegetation, greener [inaudible].

514
01:30:27,690 --> 01:30:40,920
What I saw was really, really nicely covered in green flowers.

515
01:30:40,920 --> 01:30:49,530
Flowers, liberally decorated with tree cover.

516
01:30:49,530 --> 01:31:17,600
Like an Ann Robert's cardigan, I don't know how to say it. I'll figure out some way.

517
01:31:00,440 --> 01:31:09,110
Tufted bits of tree cover, what about, burgundy-tufted. There's a blue mist at the edge.

518
01:31:12,110 --> 01:31:17,599
Already there's a little [...] away.

519
01:31:17,600 --> 01:31:45,470
The first station we came to was Mazeras, M-A-Z-E-R-A-S. [inaudible]

520
01:31:36,160 --> 01:31:39,650
Some passengers came to get a train in the opposite direction.

521
01:31:40,650 --> 01:31:45,469
They were followed down to the line by a [...], it's a real country station.

522
01:31:45,470 --> 01:31:50,030
I have seen a banana tree [...[ before,

523
01:31:50,030 --> 01:32:23,350
But now they were much thicker, and there's more of them.

524
01:31:53,880 --> 01:32:03,590
There are lots of trees, [inaudible]. Certainly the tree cover was pretty dense.

525
01:32:07,590 --> 01:32:23,350
The train was winding its way across quite hilly country, especially through the valleys, mist still hanging in them.

526
01:32:23,350 --> 01:32:37,970
As the Sun rose as quickly as it had fallen, daylight rose anew. The railway line seems to be on a

527
01:32:37,970 --> 01:32:57,240
curving ridge, from which wide valleys snaked away into the mists and hills.

528
01:32:57,240 --> 01:33:11,990
Now the houses have roofs made reeds or [inaudible], I think they must be.

529
01:33:11,990 --> 01:33:23,330
[inaudible] includes heavy industry, Kenya United Steel.

530
01:33:23,330 --> 01:33:44,620
Somebody's wrote 'Together Brothers' on a wall. I should say the breakfast was served at 6:30.

531
01:33:30,000 --> 01:33:44,620
There's actually clay, red clay and barn plant houses, and suddenly a [...].

532
01:33:44,620 --> 01:33:58,090
Here are the first signs of the open. There's something like fjord on one side of the train, wrapping itself down,

533
01:33:58,090 --> 01:34:05,140
[...] on the other side. Mombasa station, altitude 18m.

534
01:34:05,140 --> 01:34:11,650
They're carrying packages on their heads.

535
01:34:11,650 --> 01:34:17,530
But my first shadure[?], very long open station.

536
01:34:17,530 --> 01:34:33,770
It's like one long, it's like a very long bomb shelter really, with corrugated iron.

537
01:34:33,770 --> 01:34:45,960
Decorative parts of trees alongside the platform. I'm not talking to- Head into Mombasa at twenty to eight.

538
01:34:45,960 --> 01:35:07,470
The stations a red oxide corrugated iron building, looking onto a common land.

539
01:34:55,900 --> 01:35:07,469
Woman carrying a suitcase on her head and a baby on her back. Very badly unmade road.

540
01:35:07,470 --> 01:35:35,940
Yeah. Swahili [...] restaurant.

541
01:35:14,610 --> 01:35:25,909
Along way avenue. There's a huge arch of elephant tusks, basically planted on top of each other, although it's prohibited.

542
01:35:25,910 --> 01:35:35,940
Elephant tusks, wood carving and gift shops, at the tropical chemists.

543
01:35:35,940 --> 01:35:43,260
[inaudible] The Jambo Boutique.

544
01:35:43,260 --> 01:35:50,460
Taxi from Mombasa station to the Capital Hotel, 50.

545
01:35:50,460 --> 01:36:03,950
My hotel room has an Henri Rousseau painting on the wall, it seems quite appropriate.

546
01:36:03,950 --> 01:36:10,360
Little balcony, overlooking the main street.

547
01:36:10,360 --> 01:36:17,560
And overlooking a huge tree that looks a bit like a banyan tree, but isn't. I don't know what it is.

548
01:36:17,560 --> 01:36:26,710
I mean, well not in the distance, I mean, a few blocks away, there is something that looks like a minaret tome.

549
01:36:26,710 --> 01:36:42,070
I just changed some more money. Fifty pounds. Twelve hundred shillings for it.

550
01:36:34,040 --> 01:36:42,070
In Mombasa the Capital Hotel. I'm now going to buy [...].

551
01:36:42,070 --> 01:36:47,840
How do you spell it? [inaudible]

552
01:36:47,840 --> 01:37:00,100
How do you write it though? How do you write it out? Baa. B-A-A.

553
01:37:00,100 --> 01:37:08,930
Well, what's special about that tree? [inaudible]

554
01:37:08,930 --> 01:37:16,790
What's your name? Muhammad? What? Muhammad.

555
01:37:16,790 --> 01:37:26,780
Yes, of course. How long have you been [inaudible, tape distortion]

556
01:37:26,780 --> 01:37:34,310
But how old are you? Me? I'm nineteen years old. You finish school?

557
01:37:34,310 --> 01:37:39,740
Yeah, [inaudible].

558
01:37:39,740 --> 01:37:57,950
How old when you finished school? [inaudible]

559
01:37:51,610 --> 01:37:57,950
There are two guns outside Fort Jesus, and by one of them there's a canon.

560
01:37:57,950 --> 01:38:11,000
By one of them there's an iron, they look as if they're made of iron,

561
01:38:02,740 --> 01:38:11,000
and by one of them is a sign saying the Pegasus Gun, HMS Pegasus, a 2000 ton British cruiser,

562
01:38:11,000 --> 01:38:30,080
was undergoing boiler repair in Zanzibar Harbour on the 20th of September 1914, when the German cruiser Koenigsberg

563
01:38:19,770 --> 01:38:30,079
K-O-E-N-I-G-S-B-E-R-G, sank the ship and it's moorings, eight [...] guns were salvaged,

564
01:38:30,080 --> 01:38:35,990
mounted on wheels and use of coastal defence batteries in Zanzibar and Mombasa.

565
01:38:35,990 --> 01:39:17,660
The building itself, the Port Jesus, is a very grim looking, stone, it's really just a, it just presents a façade of a stone wall.

566
01:38:52,890 --> 01:39:17,660
With slits, cannons peaking through. I don't know, hatches I suppose, and the wall and slits like, like an arrow slit.

567
01:39:17,660 --> 01:39:25,820
Where did you get your hat from? Roses are red, pickles are green, I love your legs, and what's in between.

568
01:39:25,820 --> 01:39:51,560
I have it from my friend in all the states, in California, he brings for me presents. [inaudible]

569
01:39:42,790 --> 01:39:51,560
In the entrance of Fort Jesus, there's a little plaque saying translation of the Portuguese inscription above the

570
01:39:51,560 --> 01:40:09,530
outer gate. In 1635 Francesco de Seixas, de Cabreine,

571
01:40:03,480 --> 01:40:09,530
aged 27 years was made for four years captain of this fort,

572
01:40:09,530 --> 01:40:16,550
which he had reconstructed and to which he had added this guard room. He subjected to His Majesty

573
01:40:16,550 --> 01:40:22,460
the people of this coast who under that tyrant king had been in a state of rebellion.

574
01:40:22,460 --> 01:40:45,580
He made the kings of Otondl, Mandara, Luziwa and Jaca,

575
01:40:36,980 --> 01:40:45,580
tributary to His Majesty. He inflicted in-person punishment on Pate, and

576
01:40:45,580 --> 01:40:52,610
Sio, which was unexpected in India, extending to the destruction of the town walls.

577
01:40:52,610 --> 01:41:02,480
He punished the musungulls and chastised pemba,

578
01:41:02,480 --> 01:41:08,330
where on his own responsibility he had the rebel governors and all leading citizens executed.

579
01:41:08,330 --> 01:41:13,850
He made all pay tribute to His Majesty, who had neglected to pay it. For these services,

580
01:41:13,850 --> 01:41:18,950
He was made a knight of the royal household, after which he had already for other services,

581
01:41:18,950 --> 01:41:27,230
been given the habit of the Order of Christ and a yearly grant of 50 milreis,

582
01:41:27,230 --> 01:41:44,390
and the governorship of Japnadatam for six years,

583
01:41:34,840 --> 01:41:44,389
Belgao for four years, with the right to make all appointments during his life

584
01:41:44,390 --> 01:41:49,700
in the event of his death. During the vice royalty of Pedro da Silva in the Year of Our Lord

585
01:41:49,700 --> 01:41:54,800
1639. There's a big brass plaque.

586
01:41:54,800 --> 01:42:13,920
History of Mombasa 1593. The Portuguese built Fort Jesus as a military base in Mombasa, 1661 Mombasa leaders travelled to Muscat, Oman,

587
01:42:07,700 --> 01:42:13,920
to seek military assistance from the Omani authorities to help expel the Portuguese from Mombasa.

588
01:42:13,920 --> 01:42:36,960
1696 Omani naval and land forces led by the Omani Imam Seif bin Sultan l'Yaaiuby,

589
01:42:33,590 --> 01:42:36,959
to seize the Portuguese in Fort Jesus.

590
01:42:36,960 --> 01:42:54,350
1698, Fort Jesus captured by Omani Arabs after two and three quarter years seige.

591
01:42:44,830 --> 01:42:54,350
1824 Mazrui Governor of Mombasa, asked Captain Owen of the British

592
01:42:54,350 --> 01:43:01,880
Royal Navy for Protection. 1826 British Protection officially withdrawn from Mombasa.

593
01:43:01,880 --> 01:43:11,630
1828 Seyyid Said Bin, Sultan of Oman,

594
01:43:11,630 --> 01:43:22,190
consolidated his powers of Mombasa he regained full control of the Fort Jesus. 1895 to 1958

595
01:43:22,190 --> 01:43:31,310
Fort Jesus became a government prison. In 1960, the museum was built and the Fort opened to the public as a historical monument.

596
01:43:31,310 --> 01:44:01,950
This commemorative plaque was presented to His Excellency Abdullah Sayeed Abdullah,

597
01:43:41,110 --> 01:43:49,999
ambassador for the Sultanate of Oman in Kenya on the 1st of October 1982, to National Museum of Kenya.

598
01:43:50,000 --> 01:44:00,000
Then there's another plaque saying Fort Jesus Mombasa, built by the Portuguese 1593 captured by the Omani Arabs in 1698,

599
01:44:01,950 --> 01:44:07,950
became a government prison 1895, declared a national monument in 1958.

600
01:44:07,950 --> 01:44:12,930
The museum was built and opened to the public 1960.

601
01:44:12,930 --> 01:44:32,690
This plaque was presented by the Embassy of the Sultanate of Oman in Kenya to the National Museums of Kenya.

602
01:44:19,740 --> 01:44:32,690
In the beginning of Lamu Town: A Guide by Debbie Allen. He says:

603
01:44:32,690 --> 01:44:38,810
There have been urban settlements in the Lamu area for at least 1000 years.

604
01:44:38,810 --> 01:44:45,860
We know from more than one source of that Lamu Town already existed in the 14th and 15th centuries.

605
01:44:45,860 --> 01:44:51,050
And archaeology has revealed that there was an earlier settlement under what is now known

606
01:44:51,050 --> 01:45:00,500
as a Hidabu Hill, stabilised sand dune on the shore at the south end of town.

607
01:45:00,500 --> 01:45:10,070
Tradition reports another settlement under the sand hills to the north. Probably it is safe to say that a Lamu existed by 1200 A.D.,

608
01:45:10,070 --> 01:45:17,210
but that it was not firmly situated in its present position much before 1350. Of its continuous existence

609
01:45:17,210 --> 01:45:23,030
since then, there can be no doubt. Lamu, like other towns on the East African coast,

610
01:45:23,030 --> 01:45:36,290
is said to have been founded by one or more royal emigrants from the Arabian regions of the Caliphate.

611
01:45:36,290 --> 01:45:44,300
This seems quite possible, and remember the religious and political strife in Islamic world in the first few centuries after the death of the prophet,

612
01:45:44,300 --> 01:45:48,230
which might well have sent Bantu refugees scattering down the coast of Somalia,

613
01:45:48,230 --> 01:45:54,590
Kenya and Tanzania, (areas with which the Arabs had held commercial and political links)

614
01:45:54,590 --> 01:46:01,250
to seek sanctuary and, if possible, re-establish their fortunes.

615
01:46:01,250 --> 01:46:05,880
So these walls all around us now are

616
01:46:05,880 --> 01:46:19,030
they are the fort. Yes. There's only one gate to enter and to leave the fort, so, it's about two acres are of land,

617
01:46:19,030 --> 01:46:32,690
and the exhibits you'll find here, you know, the cannon, the cannonballs, to this site museum.

618
01:46:26,880 --> 01:46:32,690
The site museum display the artefacts excavated all over the coast.

619
01:46:32,690 --> 01:46:39,830
There are some excavated here, and they come from different sites along the coast.

620
01:46:39,830 --> 01:46:50,750
And you have this scene in the graphic material shown here and there you have these famous carved doors.

621
01:46:50,750 --> 01:47:04,880
You have also of cannons from different areas with the British, France, we have very old one, which are.

622
01:47:04,880 --> 01:47:08,610
Where are the carved doors? Like that one behind?

623
01:47:08,610 --> 01:47:14,340
Oh yeah. Yeah, that's one. And several others. If you walk around the place.

624
01:47:14,340 --> 01:47:18,380
And why were they carved for decoration? For decoration.

625
01:47:18,380 --> 01:47:29,750
It was, you know, during a certain period when people were quite wealthy and, you know, they like to decorate their homes and so on and so forth.

626
01:47:29,750 --> 01:47:36,560
They had beautiful doors carved. And they were very famous along the coast here.

627
01:47:36,560 --> 01:47:43,850
You have them from Zanzibar, Lamu, Mombasa and other. So it was a part of the cultural tradition? That's right, yeah.

628
01:47:43,850 --> 01:47:58,700
And we have a [...] there, a small building inside the fort, which was built by the Arabs when they occupied the fort. And inside it,

629
01:47:58,700 --> 01:48:07,640
we have some displays showing some culture from the Gulf country of Oman.

630
01:48:07,640 --> 01:48:13,550
And the sea is this way? That's right. The sea is this behind us. That's the harbour.

631
01:48:13,550 --> 01:48:22,550
The old harbour is just next to the port. This was built almost, you know, on the mouth of the harbour.

632
01:48:22,550 --> 01:48:28,580
Any vessel coming to the Mombasa will end up here.

633
01:48:28,580 --> 01:48:34,250
This was the harbour during that particular period.

634
01:48:34,250 --> 01:48:42,970
And the Old Town is adjoining the fort. That's right, the Old Town is adjoining the fort. [inaudible]

635
01:48:42,970 --> 01:48:47,390
What are these trees called, these rather fern-y looking trees?

636
01:48:47,390 --> 01:48:58,640
And we have these the African lumber and we have quite a number of them.

637
01:48:58,640 --> 01:49:03,450
I can't give you the exact scientific name.

638
01:49:03,450 --> 01:49:12,170
But what do you call them in common language? In Swahili? Or in English, whichever.

639
01:49:12,170 --> 01:49:18,770
I don't know. What about the one with the red flowers? The African Flamboyant. That's called the African

640
01:49:18,770 --> 01:49:30,080
Yeah, that's right. With the red flowers, the scarlet of flowers. Portuguese and Arab traders brought porcelain from China.

641
01:49:30,080 --> 01:49:35,060
Yes. And w hat did they take away from Kenya?

642
01:49:35,060 --> 01:49:41,740
What did they trade for their porcelain? The trade was ivory.

643
01:49:41,740 --> 01:49:56,790
And what else? Ivory? Lotus flowers, but mainly ivory. Among the 9th and 10th century artefacts in the museum at Fort Jesus,

644
01:49:56,790 --> 01:50:05,760
there is, for example, the base of a small glass beaker, Persian, shards of small glazed bowls

645
01:50:05,760 --> 01:50:17,940
and saucers, Persian. [inaudible] I suppose it means shards. Unglazed jar with tiled ornament.

646
01:50:17,940 --> 01:50:24,120
Sassanian Islamic, I don't know what Sassanian means.

647
01:50:24,120 --> 01:50:33,780
And these are all shards from excavations at Mandaue near Lamu, 9th and 10th century. The earliest articles of a local manufacture where

648
01:50:33,780 --> 01:50:39,240
pots and jars of red urban wear  roughly incised patterns around the neck and shoulders.

649
01:50:39,240 --> 01:50:52,500
Identical shapes and patterns are found at Kedi Kilepwa and Ungwana, showing the first connect

650
01:50:52,500 --> 01:51:03,630
in the 14th and 15th centuries between [inaudible]. In the 15th century [inaudible] Sabaki and Tana

651
01:51:03,630 --> 01:51:11,490
The only other articles of local manufacture were beads made from ostrich eggs and large marine shells.

652
01:51:11,490 --> 01:51:20,820
The first Ming China was being imported in the 15th century [inaudible].

653
01:51:20,820 --> 01:51:35,340
In the 15th century copies of Chinese wear, Islamic wear was found in Kenya in the 14th century.

654
01:51:35,340 --> 01:51:44,070
I don't quite know how all this squares with the 9th and 10th century shards from excavations at

655
01:51:44,070 --> 01:51:51,960
because that included things from Persia and Islamic objects.

656
01:51:51,960 --> 01:52:02,010
Pear shaped water jar from the small house outside the gate of the palace at Gedi. This is the commonest form of storage jar of the

657
01:52:02,010 --> 01:52:16,620
15th and 16th centuries. There's a lot of reference something called Celadon, which apparently went out in the 16th century,

658
01:52:16,620 --> 01:52:25,500
The Fort has a gun tower fort. a bastion on each corner. air raid roofs,

659
01:52:25,500 --> 01:52:34,810
a church, captain's house, and [inaudible]. Mombasa Island is in a mouth of the River

660
01:52:34,810 --> 01:52:46,840
Parretté. Shards of transitional Ming bowl designs. Tree

661
01:52:46,840 --> 01:52:55,930
tamarind tree and Mangifera indica, oh a mango tree.

662
01:52:55,930 --> 01:53:13,790
Go Ghana, 1498. [inaudible]

663
01:53:13,790 --> 01:53:21,190
So tell me again, when did Vasco da Gama go to India? In 1490s.

664
01:53:21,190 --> 01:53:30,490
And it was the Sultan of Malindi, who gave them the pilot to show him in a way that, Yeah [inaudible]

665
01:53:30,490 --> 01:53:35,260
So that was the real first involvement of Portugal in this part of the world.? Yes sir.

666
01:53:35,260 --> 01:54:01,060
And these two sultans, they were, what Empire did they belong to? [inaudible] The Omani Empire? I see.

667
01:53:45,800 --> 01:53:50,380
[inaudible]

668
01:54:01,060 --> 01:54:06,490
And it took them several years and ended in 1593.

669
01:54:06,490 --> 01:54:16,810
What's it made of stone? Oh yes, [inaudible]. So it's rock at the bottom and coral and stone at the top.

670
01:54:16,810 --> 01:54:21,430
Why is it this red colour? Because [inaudible].

671
01:54:21,430 --> 01:54:28,210
The Arabs were here for 200 years? Yes sir.

672
01:54:28,210 --> 01:54:38,230
Then in 1885, when this part of the Kenya coast becomes British Empire [inaudible]

673
01:54:38,230 --> 01:54:47,920
This fort then became a prison, in 1958 it became a government monument [inaudible], 1967 it became the museum.

674
01:54:47,920 --> 01:54:53,140
So it has been the museum for twenty and six.

675
01:54:53,140 --> 01:54:56,990
What is your name sir? Saeed.

676
01:54:56,990 --> 01:55:06,280
The Old Town is about 160 years old. No the Old Town of more than 2000 years. More than 2000? [inaudible]

677
01:55:06,280 --> 01:55:11,080
So the oldest houses are 160 years. [inaudible]

678
01:55:11,080 --> 01:55:15,010
[inaudible] Buy the wild animals. Buy wild animals?

679
01:55:15,010 --> 01:55:26,960
Yes. What kind of wild animals? Mhm, small.

680
01:55:18,700 --> 01:55:26,960
The hat that you are wearing, what is the name of that style of hat? In Swahili we would say Kofia

681
01:55:26,960 --> 01:55:32,860
How do you spell that? Kofia. And what's it called in Arabic?

682
01:55:32,860 --> 01:55:41,580
You know? Kofia. Same thing. Just looking out from the watch tower on the blue India Ocean.

683
01:55:41,580 --> 01:55:48,490
[inaudible] Pyeada.

684
01:55:48,490 --> 01:56:06,340
So part of this was 2000 years old? [inaudible] Not 2000, 200 million years old. That's a big different, 200 million.

685
01:56:06,340 --> 01:56:15,250
So they're relatives, they look like palms, but they're actually relatives of the pine and fir trees. They, their

686
01:56:15,250 --> 01:56:19,240
fruits are enormous cones, like the  distant relative of the pines.

687
01:56:19,240 --> 01:56:24,950
Oh, so Fort Jesus is normally Catholic Portuguese.

688
01:56:24,950 --> 01:56:51,430
[inaudible] Tipped my first guide at Fort Jesus, who I wanted to get rid of, that was 100.

689
01:56:34,710 --> 01:56:38,380
Your hat, what is it made of, is it made of cotton? [inaudible]

690
01:56:51,430 --> 01:56:58,590
Actually the red flowered tree I was looking at is called Flame of the Forest.

691
01:56:58,590 --> 01:57:06,950
These these Portuguese canons are from when again? More than 300 years old, and they could go a thousand metres? [inaudible]

692
01:57:06,950 --> 01:57:15,830
Vasco da Gama chose the site where the fort should be built. That's 5 o'clock in the morning?

693
01:57:15,830 --> 01:57:23,160
5 o'clock, 5am. 1pm, 4pm, 6:30pm, and 8 o'clock at night.

694
01:57:23,160 --> 01:57:32,840
Those are the times to go for prayer. So there's Arabic, Portuguese, Spanish influence and mixing in the Old Town.

695
01:57:32,840 --> 01:57:38,810
But they use a special kind of leaves for them? Mango leaves.

696
01:57:38,810 --> 01:57:52,610
So for the Hindu, they will keep evil spirits away. Where do the girls come from? From various part like Arabia, Indian, Somali, formally, before the war

697
01:57:52,610 --> 01:58:02,720
they even come from Persia. And they come in February? Yes. For what purpose?

698
01:58:02,720 --> 01:58:10,370
When they come here they bring along with them precious carpet, Arabic chairs and boxes.

699
01:58:10,370 --> 01:58:15,410
What kind of boxes? [inaudible]

700
01:58:15,410 --> 01:58:21,230
[inaudible] When they go back out after about three months,

701
01:58:21,230 --> 01:58:30,550
they carry the mangos or wooden balls [inaudible], charcoal, coffee tea, [...].

702
01:58:30,550 --> 01:58:44,460
Still today? They've been here for three months waiting for the trading winds to change and go back.

703
01:58:38,500 --> 01:58:44,459
They always go on the [inaudible].

704
01:58:44,460 --> 01:58:51,640
And what happens in a three months while waiting here? The trade their gold [inaudible].

705
01:58:51,640 --> 01:58:56,320
We make them a quick profit back Arabia. But don't they have engines in the boat?

706
01:58:56,320 --> 01:59:05,010
Formally it used to take more than six weeks because they were dependent only on the sail, if there was no wind they could not go.

707
01:59:05,010 --> 01:59:15,900
But now, of course, the motor would take a maximum of two weeks from Arabia or India to sail, because if there's no wind, we just put on the enginre.

708
01:59:15,900 --> 01:59:25,260
Yeah. There are six different types of [....]. There's a [...] which comes from Persia, the [...] from Saudi Arabia. [...] from Hedin

709
01:59:25,260 --> 01:59:29,880
But then [...] from India. All are in different shapes.

710
01:59:29,880 --> 01:59:37,650
Even some of them are double masks. [inaudible]

711
01:59:37,650 --> 01:59:47,490
[inaudible]

712
01:59:47,490 --> 01:59:54,860
Where the old motorway was situated [...].

713
01:59:54,860 --> 02:00:01,410
It was the biggest motorway in the world. When was that removed? It was demolished five years ago, I see.

714
02:00:01,410 --> 02:00:07,890
So you specialise in sandalwood? Yeah. And of course, perfumes. Now see the sandalwood perfume

715
02:00:07,890 --> 02:00:13,270
is long lasting, seven to eight weeks now, if you put a little drop in

716
02:00:13,270 --> 02:00:20,190
bottled water in your hair, long last seven to eight weeks, you don't want to tell anybody you put perfume.

717
02:00:20,190 --> 02:00:27,900
The friends will come and ask you which perfume you put everyday the wind direction will pass [inaudible]

718
02:00:27,900 --> 02:00:31,860
You can agree, original, long-lasting.

719
02:00:31,860 --> 02:00:42,780
But [...] no guarantees. [inaudible] About seven places? yes in India now.

720
02:00:42,780 --> 02:00:50,310
So Lucknow, Mysore, Kashmir, you mentioned, And [...]. Where is that?

721
02:00:50,310 --> 02:01:00,010
I don't know where that is, at all. Now, see, this is not the [inaudible]

722
02:01:00,010 --> 02:01:05,520
Yeah, I've been to India now. [inaudible]

723
02:01:05,520 --> 02:01:11,560
When you smell a good perfume? Your brain will come broad minded, really sharp.

724
02:01:11,560 --> 02:01:19,260
To enjoy delight? To enjoy life? Yes, because it is the making of gift.

725
02:01:19,260 --> 02:01:29,290
What do you want to spread? Good things. Everybody needs good times, good friends, good food.

726
02:01:29,290 --> 02:01:33,870
But we don't take the liquor or alcohol, ever.

727
02:01:33,870 --> 02:01:43,650
Never. So you are a Muslim of course? No! It is not natural. Alcoholic drinks are natural also.

728
02:01:43,650 --> 02:01:46,230
No, nothing.

729
02:01:46,230 --> 02:02:00,210
This is all the grown, now see if you drink it is only after [inaudible] but we need the original.

730
02:02:00,210 --> 02:02:23,960
Now if the original is grape juice, for instance [tape cuts out].

731
02:02:23,960 --> 02:02:30,530
So this is to Al-Tanf, Noorani and Bray further to our discussion yesterday.

732
02:02:30,530 --> 02:02:38,041
I now enclose copies of [tape cuts out]